Posted by gary on Sunday, 11 December, 2011
This time last year six inches of snow lay on the ground so it seems a bit strange for deep low pressure, storm systems to be rattling across the country. It feels like Autumn has arrived with a vengeance and it looks likely to continue for a few days yet.
Back to today, we awoke to an eerie calm but bang on forecast the wind started to fill in late morning. Down at the beach, most were rigging 5.2s but I gambled on going smaller with a 4.7m. It turned out to be a good choice as the wind rose and rose over the next hour. The combination of cold, rain and a howling gale soon whittled those on the water down to just three. I was still out and the conditions were getting better and better with a head to logo swell starting to roll in.
Temperature wise, it wasn’t too bad. My hood was on by the end of the session but no boots or gloves just yet. My RRD Quad was ripping the conditions and I was really impressed with its jumping ability on top of riding the onshore conditions. I still need to work on my top turn though. Too many times, I depowered and fell off the back the wave. Getting vertical in these conditions is hard! One wave in particular, I cut-back tightly and nailed the top turn. Sweet! I think this worked because my bottom turn was tighter and that way I kept more speed. A wider, drawn out bottom turn may work going down the line or in a chunky wave, but on our windblown swell I need to keep more board speed.
On the bright side, it looks like there’s plenty of wind around over the next week for some more practice…